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Sunday, May 29, 2011

Democrat and Chronicle Celebrates Johnston Estate Winery's 50th Anniversary


(Photo of tasting room which preserves old barn beams that add luster to newly rennovated tastingroom)
Johnson Estate Winery celebrates 50th anniversary
2:01 PM, May. 11, 2011
RochesterDemocrat and Chronicle

One of the state's 10 oldest wineries is preparing to celebrate its 50th anniversary.

Johnson Estate Winery, established by Frederick S. Johnson in 1961 in Westfield, Chautauqua County, just finished renovating and expanding its tasting room. Tanks can be seen through a new glass wall of the former apple cold storage building that long has served as the tasting room and gift shop. The original portions of the building, including simple moldings, century-old barn beams, and even old insulated walls, have been preserved, according to a news release from the winery.


The farm originally was owned by the Peacock family, heirs of the original owner and land agent of the Holland Land Co. In 1911, Frederick W. Johnson, an immigrant from the United Kingdom by way of Canada, purchased the land and house and built the apple cold storage building that now houses the winery.


Frederick S. Johnson, son of Frederick W. and Nan Scouller Johnson, founded the winery after serving as a pilot in the Navy, graduating from Cornell University and working in international agriculture, according to the winery's news release. He was among the first in western New York to plant French-hybrid grapes bred for wine, and those vines still produce juice for many of the estate's wines. Today, the winery and farm are owned by the third generation of Johnsons, all Cornell graduates.

Read the whole article at:
http://www.democratandchronicle.com/article/20110518/ENT0303/110511010

Beverage Media Magazine Profiles New York Wine


In the June 2011 issue of Beverage Media magazine, the resource bible for wines and liquor stores nationwide, there is a fantastic piece on New York wine.


It's a great feature story that profiles many wineries from throughout the state, including Niagara, Finger Lakes, Long Island, Hudson Valley and elsehwere. Very nice piece. The story was carried nationally. Its a great shot in the arm for New York wine.

Saturday, May 28, 2011

A HISTORY OF CONNECTICUT WINE



Seems like this is the year of regional wine books! First the Finger Lakes got their shot, with two books this season, and now Connecticut is getting in the act. A former son of Connecticut, I am pre-disposed to like this book.

Wine has been meticulously crafted in Connecticut ever since colonists discovered wild grapes growing on their land. At first glance, the New England climate appears inhospitable for this fastidious fruit, but a number of varieties thrive here, including pinot gris, chardonnay, cabernet franc, cayuga white and st. croix. These carefully cultivated grapes have produced wines of unique characteristics and surprising quality. Join local wine enthusiasts Eric D. Lehman and Amy Nawrocki as they explore the intricacies of the region s local blends, the vintners who craft them and the people who taste them.

This is a great little book (only a very readable 128 pages). Lehmann and Nawrocki affably tell the history of wine in the state, and interview numerous people in the bargain. A truly wonderful little tome, filled with all the interesting anecdotes one might expect.

Praise for this book:

"Do You Know Where Your Wine Has Been?...Thanks to University of Bridgeport English professors Amy Nawrocki and Eric D. Lehman, now you do. Their new book, "A History of Connecticut Wine: A Vineyard in Your Backyard," published last month by The History Press, illuminates the past and present of Connecticut winemaking. With more than 30 vineyards in our state and a longstanding history of wine-producing vineyards dating back to the colonial days, there's plenty to tell. Read the whole story in their book. You might just find a new favorite grape growing in your own backyard." --Meaghan Morelli, The Daily

"Nutmeggers and visitors alike can unearth the industry's history, meet the winemakers and enjoy some food for thought--all paired with a Connecticut wine perfect for the occasion." --Jaime Ferris, Housatonic Times

It's a great book. If you like wine and live or are visiting New England, you should buy a bottle of Connecticut wine and read this book, either in a Adaronack chair by Long Island Sound or the Atlantic Ocean, or on the porch of some lovely back country summer home or inn. A fun, wonderful read!

Saratoga Winery in Saratoga, NY

Saratoga! Horse country! A weekend or two ago, Dominique and I took the boys the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame, which is dedicated to the history of thoroughbred racing. We have always loved horse racing, and used to go fairly often to many different kinds of racing from Timber races, the Fair Hill races, to Monmouth, Pimlico, Churchill Downs, and Belmont. And yes, of course, we even went to Saratoga.



So it seemed right that for us to visit Saratoga, and not visit Saratoga Winery, would just be plain silly.

They are just finishing a sizable expansion, so the tasting room was quite big and roomy. An old barn, reoutfitted, it was filled with old, used wine barrles and wood bar top. Very homey and unpretensious.
They had numerous wines, including dry, semi-sweet, and sweet, and a few extras as well. You see, Saratoga Winery does traditional wine - and well. But they also make some non-traditional wines as well.
Bloodroot is one of the wines I had at the end of my tasting. Saratoga makes Melomels - grape wines made with honey. There are not many in all the east coast. This one is a dark red, port-styled wine. The wine is made from Malovasia grapes and aged in oak. It is also sweetened with honey. It's very much like a port, but you can taste a hint of honey. A very nice dessert wine.


Another melomel is Melo Yelo. It's made of Riesling and is blended with sweet wild flower honey. Aromas of apricot, pear, honey, and spiced apple come forward, with a big hit of honey. This is a big dessert wine. Perfect with creme brule', well made sugar cookies, figs and cheese. A different expereince for dessert. Fun to try.



As I said, they had more tradition wines. I tried a very nice Chardonnay and then had a lovely Riesling. We liked the Riesling very, very much. My favorite was next - Steeplechase. No. 1, it defintely had the best label - horses racing coming off a jump! Loved it! But what of the wine? This was a very nice blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Rougeon and Lemberger aged in oak. Medium bodied, it was very Burgundian as it's tones of black pepper, plum, pomegranate, and black cherry both on the nose and in the mouth. A nice, smooth finish. I liked it alot!


And then came time for more traditional fare. The Cabernet Franc 2009 was among my favorites. A medium-bodied red with hins of cherry and raspberry and plum, and just enough of a whiff of herbacenous and a whiff of vanilla sent me over the age. Nice mouthfeel. Good tannins. Light to medium in body. Really, really lovely wine. I liked this and the Steepleshase the best.


The Merlot was very nice, with all the characteristics of a wine you would expect. Raspberry, cherry, hints of vanilla. This was a lovely, red, dry, classic red. Very nice.


The Cabernet Sauvignon 2009 was also good. Strong hints of dark cherry, dark raspberry, and a hint of cassis and vanilla brought to life in a glass. A big dark red wine meant for grilled meats.

Out back, the winery featured a beautiful deck, which, not unsurprisingly wasfilled with people al around. I just happened to catch a brief moment when no one was in the frme...but trust me, the deck was filled with people when we first got there! A great place to hang out with friends, and while away an hour or two!
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Friday, May 27, 2011

Hopkins Vineyards in Litchfield, CT



Back in the day, when I was first started going to wineries, more than 20 years ago (gulp! is it that long ago?) I took my then girlfriend and another friend, and we drove up Route 7 to Hopkins Vineyards.



Set on the northern shore of Lake Waramaug, Hopkins Vineyard, a family-owned Connecticut Century Farm, proudly maintains a tradition of making fine wines of award-winning quality.

In 1787, Elijah Hopkins, returning from the Revolutionary War, chose this rich and fertile site on Lake Waramaug to settle his family and start the Hopkins Farm. The farm has seen the raising of sheep, race horses, grain crops, tobacco, and dairy farming in the intervening years. In 1979, the first vines were planted and the 19th century barn was converted into successful local winery.



They've been in business for 30 years. My first visit was back in 1990 or thereabouts. Bill Hopkins is the winemaker and Hilary Hopkins is President, both descendents of Elijah Hopkins himself.



The tasting room is housed in the estate's old barn, which has been re-outfitted for winery production. The tasting room is pretty, with a view behind the bar of the rolling hillsides. There are bottles everywhere festooned with medals and awards for all their wines.



I started with the barrel fermented Estate Bottled Chardonay 2008. It was light, lively, crisp, with hints of green apple and honeysuckle, a hint of melon, and a lovely smooth finish. A nice mineral feel comes across as well. This is a very, very nice chardonnay.



Estate Bottled Vineyard Reserve 2008 This wine is made froom estate-grown Seyval Blanc grapes. This is a big, fruity, crisp, light, dry, white. Apple and peach come across. The ending though it citrusy and bright. Very refreshing. One of the best Seyval Blancs I've ever had! Excellent!!!



Cabernet Franc Estate Bottled 2006 - This is an entirely estate-grown Cabernet Franc. It is medium-bodied red, with a nice nose filled with raspberry, cherry, vanilla. pepper, and a hint of pencil shavings (a classic Cab Franc trait). A touch of dried leaves or earthiness too. Nice mouthfeel, with soft fruits, dark raspberries, dried figs, and black currant all come through as promised. The tannns are not so up front here, and the finnish is smooth, but the fruit will linger, and the tannins hit late. One can almost taste the warm Connecticut summer, and the cool hints of autumn in this wine. A very nice wine, perfect for grilled meats. Lovely!



Estate Bottled Ice Wine 2007 - They do this the old fashioned way - picking grapes left ot hang for in the winter. They pick 'em in the cold Connecticut winter. This is a eye-popper of a wine. The nose is a big whiff of honey, apricots, apples and peaches. Big, big nose. The wine itself is unctious and delicious. The same flavors show up in the mouth, but with an acidity that balances out the sweet, with a flavor you want to savor. Its really a sensation you don't want to end. Luckily, it lingers for a good long time. Absolutely one of the best dessert wines I have ever tasted.



I hadn't been back here in a long time. When I was younger, I came here fairly often, hitting Haight-Brown and DiGrazia back in the day. Those were some fun days, riding in a convertible, with the top down, riding through the sun dappled Connecticut back country roads. Having grown up driving up and down the Connecticut roads from Fairfield down to Southport, Westport, Darien, New Cannan, and down to Greenwich, and driving up and down to places like Kent, New London, Stonington, and other places, I remembered a lot of days from my childhood and young adult life. Peering into jumbles of things in old antique shops, gleening through titles in ld book stores, and looking at countless stonewalls.




The winery in the back has grown since I first started oming. The rooms must be the same size, because I remember the walkways on the self guided tour, and they are very well worn. But the tanks seem bigger now and there are more barrels of aging wine. They are defintely making more wine than before.

They also have a series of picnic wines, with slightly lower price points, and graphically different labels. Westwind (a semi-sweet white blend) and Sachem's Picnic (a semi-sweet red blend) seem as popuar as I remember them being. Also, I was disappointed that the cider was sold out. It is a lovely, farmhouse cider, as I remember it. Quite nice. I was bummed it wasn't available.





The other thing I highly recommend is going up stairs to their lovely diningroom, where you can sample a bottle of wine and a nice cheese plate featuring locally hand made Connecticut farm fresh cheeses.




I know Wolfe said You can't go home again. But for one day, it was nice to see, and know that instead of diminishing in your eyes, that it had actually improved with age - as all fine wine should. Hopkins was somehow even prettier than I even remembered. And the wine had aged very, very well. A great, great expereince in a beautiful part of the world.

Sunday, May 22, 2011

Benmarl Baco Noir 2009




I will not equivocate - I have been collectng bottles of Benmarl Baco noir since I first started drinking it about 10 years ago. I love it. There is nothing much like it in my expereince. I've cellared many of them over the years. They only get better. It's fabulous.




Mark Miller founded Benmarl Winery at Slate Hill Vineyards, America's oldest vineyards (the vineyard site has been under production in three different centuries now). Baco Noir is one of the hybrids bred to replace Pinot Noir during the phylloxera epidemic in the 19800s, but which thrives beautifully in the Hudson Valley.




The wine is a big nose full of sour cherry, with hints of plum and spice with a whiff of vanilla, and a slight touch of barnyard. It's a little bit of Burgundy right in the middle of the Hudson Valley.

This a great food wine, perfect for chicken, pork, or roasted lamb or other game meats. Great with grilled meats as well as beef or lamb stews. Another terrifc red wine from Benmarl. I'm going to place several in the cellar as soon as possible.

Allagash White of Maine


I was recently out in NYC the other day, and had the opportunity to try a wonderful beer, Allagash White.

Allagash Brewing Company started in 1995, as a one-man operation in a small space on the outskirts of Portland, Maine. Founder Rob Tod had worked in a brewery setting before and recognized a void within the craft brewing movement. While both German and British styles had become prevalent throughout the U.S., the ever-creative Belgian-styles were very difficult to find. Through his travels, Tod had sampled many of these unique beers and felt that the flavors and traditions of Belgium needed to be shared with the American drinking public. He designed a small 15-barrel brewhouse, gathered the finest array of authentic raw materials and began his quest towards the production of traditional Belgian style ales. Rob sold his first batch of beer in the summer of 1995.

The first release from Allagash was Allagash White, modeled after the traditional "White" beers of Belgium. Also referred to as "wit" beers, they get their unique flavor from the use of wheat in place of barley, and the use of Curacao orange peel, coriander and other spices. Allagash combined these ingredients with their very own proprietary Belgian yeast strain to create the remarkably unique and refreshing beer that is today their flagship brand.


I love a good "wit" beer. The beer was cold and refreshing, and a great accompaniment with food. Really really enjoyed it. Great beer!