Showing Status at All Levels
By HOWARD G. GOLDBERG
Published: October 2, 2009
By HOWARD G. GOLDBERG
Published: October 2, 2009
Nine years into Michael Lynne’s ownership, Bedell Cellars in Cutchogue has consolidated its status as a world-class estate. This stature is reflected not so much in the costliest wines, where excellence may be assumed, but at lower levels.
The 2008 Taste White ($30) seamlessly melds chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, gewürztraminer, riesling and viognier — a feat. Lithe and palate-cleansing, this subtle liquid orchard makes a fine accompaniment to oysters, clams — everything in a raw bar.
The 2008 First Crush White ($18), a chardonnay-viognier blend that translates into grapefruit and pear flavors, is a workhorse wine from young vines — a good match for chicken, fish, pork, veal — that should be drunk soon.
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